Ultimate Tierra Del Fuego

In my opinion the world`s best riding expedition! No kidding! This is an exciting riding adventure to the uttermost tip of Tierra del Fuego, the jewel of Patagonia, that should appeal to those of you looking for extreme and genuine adventure. The area we explore has practically no inhabitants, no roads, and almost no fences making it an ideal territory for a free-ranging exploratory ride. In my opinion this is the best location in the world for exploration on horseback, with an unmatched sense of freedom from civilisation.

Tierra del Fuego - Fireland, a land of magic tales of times past and of stunning scenery is the setting for a truly fascinating riding expedition into the southernmost part of the world reachable by horse. The uttermost peninsula of Tierra del Fuego overlooks the Beagle channel on the southern side, while the eastern coast is bathed by the Atlantic ocean. This most virgin area of the island is a treasure trove of exciting historical discoveries and encounters with wildlife that combine to make the expedition a truly remarkable experience. Only the essentials matter after starting off: the struggle against the elements, the bond with your horse that is essential for your survival, food, shelter - here you encounter nature in the form that all boys dream about - raw and powerful. Dramatic and awesome are apt descriptions for both the weather and the scenery.

The expedition is not highly demanding from a riding perspective, though it is imperative that you be familiar with the basics of controlling a horse, but it does require steady nerves and good balance to traverse the unique terrain composed of muddy cliffs rising steeply up from sandy beaches, our trails often cross deep peat bogs that represent a new type of challenge for any rider! Our expedition horses are fortunately the steadiest and least nervous of any that I have ridden - essential traits when the bog gives way and a horse falls through, as is inevitable. Not to worry though, as our guide and his horses will get you through any terrain on earth without a scratch.

There are hundreds of kilometres of wild beaches dotted with old shipwrecks, sea lion colonies, penguins and orcas. Also to be encountered in great abundance are huge wild bulls with very sharp horns that will make you happy to be seated on a horse - there are many of these dangerous beasts roaming freely here. The peninsula retains signs of the original indian inhabitants vividly described by Lucas Bridges in his unique and totally fascinating book 'Uttermost Part of the Earth', documenting his early life amongst these people as son of the first Anglican missionaries in Tierra del Fuego during the latter part of the 19th century. In addition to the shipwrecks on the beaches, there are also masts, bits of broken up boats, abandoned whaling stations, abandoned estancias, abandoned gold prospector huts and a great deal of wildlife - in particular guanaco and fox as well as more than 100 species of birds. On the shore one can get close to sea-lions, penguins and if you are very lucky (like I was) pods of orca hunting close in-shore.

Our route wades four major rivers, crosses great wild forests full of fallen timber in quantities never seen elsewhere, tall sea cliffs, extensive peat bogs, and the completely desolate beaches. A great deal of the riding is along the shore, so the incoming tide will determine the timing of the daily rides. The daily riding time varies according to the pace and distance from 3 - 10 hours in the saddle. The rest of the 18 hour days are thus available for more exploration on foot, for fishing in the rivers and the ocean, and for taking care of your horse if you feel so inclined. We camp at gaucho puestos (cowboy outposts) most nights so there is shelter inside in case of a severe storm. Our cooking will generally be done in the outpost kitchens around a hot wood-fired stove where you can also dry your clothes and equipment.

Due to the wildness of the terrain no support vehicles can get in along our route, so all the tents and food supplies will be hauled by pack horse and we have to travel very light, each person packing only what can fit into the saddle-bags provided by our guide. The riding totals a distance of 300km with many hours in the saddle on some days (8 - 10hrs). With the long days at this latitude in summer there is still plenty of time left over each day for other pursuits and for resting up! The horses are the sturdy Criollo horse used in most of the far South of Patagonia, very sure footed and steady. The tack used is Argentine and Chilean.

Expedition Itinerary:

Day 1
We drive very early in the morning from Ushuaia to the starting point of the expedition by minibus or car, duration approximately 5.5hrs, with a stop for coffee in Tolhuin village. We offload the horses from their transporter. Start of the riding expedition. Ride to a strategically located gaucho puesto (cowboy sleeping quarters) overlooking the sea cliffs fronting the ocean and with the surrounding great virgin forests at the back. Overnight in the puesto. Spectacular views from a position commanding the surrounding terrain. Riding time approximately 8 hours.

Day 2
Ride to a second puesto on the banks of another river. The last signs of civilisation recede as we face the increasingly harsh and wild nature of this remote location. We cross deep water on the way and may have to wait for the tide to drop in order to cross without the horses swimming. There are several old shipwrecks strewn along the beach, bits covered by sand; mute testimony to past storms and the difficulty of sailing the seas around Cape Horn. The ride distance is about 50km along the beach and over the sea cliffs. Duration 7 hours. We camp at the old puesto by the shores of the Rio Bueno. In the distance one can make out the distant peaks of the Andes around Ushuaia.

Day 3
After breakfast we wade the river Bueno and ride by the beach in conditions similar to the previous day, with the added component of traversing soft bog-land for part of the route. We encounter the herd of more than 100 wild horses that make these green cliffs of Tierra del Fuego their home. It is a spectacular experience seeing them canter off in all directions ahead of our team. We encounter more shipwrecks, including that of the large metal-hulled sailing clipper 'Duchess of Albany' possibly intentionally run aground here as part of an insurance scam at the dawn of the age of the steamships. Riding up above the beach we ride through a long valley that allows us to see the 'False Bay' adjacent to our destination: the abandoned Estancia Policarpo where all the buildings are now in ruins. We stay in the least derelict workers quarter, which has a stove and bunk beds. There is a working shower too.

Day 4
We change tactics and ride a little inland across bogs, soft ground and through low forest which obliges us to dismount on occasion in order to pass. The bird-life here is impressive, comprising condors riding the thermals just above our heads, albatros, cormorants, ducks and geese as well as many smaller birds of the fuegian forest and coast. On passing Cape San Vicente we cut diagonally inland towards our destination; the last bay on the outermost peninsula of Tierra del Fuego - the Bahia Thetis. Here are the remains of an old abandoned sea-lion processing plant cum hunting station as well as a rustic storm shelter. At this location some of the earliest European explorers made landfall for the first time in Tierra del Fuego, including Captain Cook in the Endeavour. We stay in the storm shelter and/or camp in tents on the grass along the beach.

Day 5
We spend the following day exploring the surrounding area, possibly all the way to the lighthouse on Cape San Diego, the far point of the peninsula. Also the closest point to the 'Staten Island' visible in the sea mist for some time now. Whether we can cross Bahia Thetis depends on getting across the bay at low tide, a risky endeavour as riding into the deep water is not for everyone.

Day 6
The expedition turns back the way it came. We ride back to the abandoned Estancia Policarpo and stay overnight.

Day 7
Ride to the puesto at Rio Bueno, mostly along the beach. We again pass the wreck of the Duchess of Albany a large iron hulled 4-masted clipper, along the way.

Day 8
Ride on to the first gaucho puesto of the estancia. Overnight in the puesto which is super luxurious in comparison to our accommodation over the past days! And with fantastic views over the ocean fronting cliffs of the island and the deep virgin forest that covers the hills in the other direction behind us.

Day 9
Ride to a camp above the Irigoyen river with heavily forested banks. Camp for the night. Location of some of the world`s best fishing for large sea-run brown trout up to 20lbs in weight (salmo trutta).

Day 10
We ride to the starting point of the expedition, or alternatively out through the dense forest along the river towards the interior of the island, to arrive 7 hours later at an agreed pick-up point for loading our horses to return to Ushuaia. Drive back to Ushuaia for the night. End of the riding expedition.

Day 11
Next day return flight to Buenos Aires. Alternatively you might head off to explore the Chilean side of the island should you no longer wish to return home again, a likely scenario after this most addictive wilderness ride. Consult me for information about salmon and trout fishing opportunities!

Read more about the unique area where this expedition takes place - WHERE THE SEAS CLASH: THE LAND OF THE ANCIENT HAUSH, TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

Summary

Price guide per person for 4-10 riders

Quality horses
Fast riding pace
Accommodation

Dramatic scenery
Good weather
Cultural interest