Uruguay Estancias

A very well organised, luxury riding holiday that presents several areas of little-known Uruguay to you in the most comfortable way possible on horseback. This is a small agricultural country sandwiched between its much bigger neighbours, Brazil and Argentina, with which it shares language and most aspects of its culture. The riding pace is fast in places, and the horses are some of the best trained quality mounts to be found in South America, being very forward going - really excellent animals that will satisfy the most demanding rider! The ride starts at the first grand estancia founded in the country, now a tourist estancia, then continues in the subtropical coastal province of Rocha, bordering Brazil.

We ride along the Atlantic coast, over sand dunes, through native butia palm groves and shady woodlands and on along the shores of some of the largest expanses of inland water to be found here. The variety of birds along this semi-tropical coast make it an ornithological paradise for the avid bird-watcher.

The old forts that we visit en-route are a reminder of the turbulent years between the discovery of this area by the first Europeans in 1516 and independence in 1828. Uruguay was only settled in the 18th century but since then fine estancias and, more recently, the beach resort at Punta del Este have been built. Each ride is adapted to cater for the requirements of the individual group, and custom itinerary requests can be accommodated.

We offer 2 different versions of this ride - the standard itinerary available to all, and a custom itinerary available on request to private groups of at least 8 riders.

Standard Itinerary

Day 2 18th century Fortin de San Miguel - Northern Uruguay
After breakfast we will be driven to the Brazilian border and into Rocha, arguably the most beautiful province in Uruguay with its pristine beaches, emerald shores and network of lagoons. We will visit Chuy town, straddling the border where guests can step into Brazil and hear the locals speak a strange language made of a mix of Spanish and Portuguese. As we arrive at the hotel built in the same stone as the nearby Portuguese fortress we can admire the views out across an enormous stretch of fresh water - one of the largest fresh water reserves of South America, the Merin Lagoon. After lunch we will meet the gauchos and our horses, then ride around the rolling hills of San Miguel park enjoying a wonderful panoramic view of the area from the top of the boulder covered Cerro Picudo. The view across the flat lowlands and the huge lagoon provides a very different landscape to the following days rides. We can smell the sea and on clear days view the coast. This area is home to a wide variety of birds and we will see many different native trees and bushes. We will also have the chance to see the Cimarron cattle the first cattle, introduced from Spain in the 17th century and depending on what the gauchos are doing, they may need a hand to work these tame animals. We will stay at the hotel Fortin de San Miguel, guests can enjoy the gardens, swimming pool and the relaxed atmosphere.

Day 3 Barra de Chuy beach
In the morning we will have a nice 3-4 hours ride along the Brazilian border, sometimes riding in Uruguay and at others in Brazil! After a really good picnic lunch at a working estancia, riders may take a siesta, discovering that gauchos saddles also make good ground mats! Then we will have a fast-paced ride along the wonderful, isolated ocean beach of Barra Chuy. Visitors seldom reach this beach so we can enjoy a long, exhilarating canter with no signs of habitation as we ride across the pure white sands alongside the Atlantic ocean. We arrive 22km further south at La Coronilla and stay at a small beach-side hotel.

Day 4 Santa Teresa national park, dolphins & shipwrecks.
Today we will ride south, alternating beach with coastal hills, sand dunes, pine forests and into the Santa Teresa National Park. The center-piece of the park is a fort started in 1762 by the Portuguese to defend the frontier of their territories, then later completed by the Spaniards who took it by assault just a year later. This was just the start of a succession of conquests of the fort; it was not until 1825 that the newly forming Uruguay finally captured and held the fort. The fort is surrounded by 3000 hectares of forest containing over 2 million trees the majority from other parts of the world and, after a picnic lunch we will enjoy riding along the forest trails, down to the beach. We pass a shipwreck buried in the sand one of many along this treacherous coast. Indeed, Polonio, where we ride later is named after a Spanish galleon that went down just off the point. Luckily the HMS Beagle with Charles Darwin aboard did not succumb to this fate and Darwin spent quite some time in Uruguay collecting species and most likely starting to formulate his theories of evolution. Most days there is the wonderful sight of dolphins feeding in the bay. After a traditional picnic close to the fortress or on the beach depending on the weather, we can choose between been driven or canter back along the waters edge to the hotel for barbecued fresh fish, Uruguayan wine and a pleasant rest listening to the waves.

Day 5 Don Bosco tropical palm groves & Laguna Negra
After an early breakfast, we will be driven along a scenic road close by the famous Laguna Negra (the black lagoon). We will meet the horses and ride to the Don Bosco hills from where we will be able to enjoy an incredible view of the unique extensive palm groves and Laguna Negra. Despite a number of stories, no one knows how the palm trees got here - they may be some 300 years old; they are not native but they give the landscape a very exotic look. Descending the hills we ride alongside the lake where we may see ibis, herons, egrets, storks and a legion of migrating birds (birds arrive here from as far as Alaska and the Falkland Islands). After a typical lunch on the lagoon shores, we ride on eastwards through the palm groves and back towards the coast where we meet the vehicle and head to a nearby working Estancia - El Sauce, for the night.

Day 6 El Sauce, an authentic estancia in Uruguay
We wake up on a farm - El Sauce is a working estancia run by its owners, where we will enjoy a full day of riding around the fields and varied vegetation of the property. The estancia, built in 1920, is very comfortable it is not a hotel but a big family house that we have been invited to stay as guests of the owners, offering us a very special insight into the life in the country. For example, guests can sample local mate tea sipped hot out of a dry gourd. The gauchos and their mate are inseparable and a whole ceremony has developed around drinking mate. In addition to the grasslands this estancia has a large area of marshlands and rice, both of which are teeming with bird life (more than 400 species in this area) making another very varied ride and giving us the chance to see the graceful black-necked swan (the largest populations in the world are to be found here), the rare white goose and many ducks and other birds such as the largest bird in South America - the ostrich-like rhea. Otters, coypus and capybaras inhabit the marshlands and streams. At several points on the trip we will see the pink flamingo a species quite common in Uruguay. Overnight at the estancia.

Day 7 Cabo Polonio sand dunes & sea lions
The day starts with a drive to the ocean coast. We will met our horses and ride into the desert! We ride through the area which has been declared a natural animal reserve and a Biosphere Natural Reserve by UNESCO. We will ride to Cabo Polonio, a charming fishing village which can only be reached by horse or four wheel drive vehicle. The fascinating part of the area is the huge zone of shifting sand dunes, and as we ride through it is possible to imagine that we are right in the middle of the Sahara. After lunch at a restaurant on the beach we will see seals and sea lions that populate the small islands and make up one of the largest populations of seals in the world; very occasionally we spot a migrating whale. Riders can swim from one of the most beautiful beaches in the country. Later we drive to a lovely comfortable working estancia, El Charabon, to stay the night.

Day 8 El Charabon a working estancia
We continue our riding trip at Estancia El Charabon (Charabon means small rhea). El Charabon is a 1200 ha, beautiful working estancia specialized in calving and lambing. Today we will enjoy new horses and a long ride to the beach to have a picnic lunch. Ride back to the estancia and relax in the open swimming pool before having a wonderful sunset tea time. Uruguayan wine, lamb barbecue and the home-made specialities are a special complement to our beautiful cantering rides at this charming estancia.

Day 9 Estancia cattle drive and traditional meals
On day nine, in addition to a very nice ride on the excellent horses from the estancia, we will have the chance of helping the gauchos and their dogs on cattle and sheep drives. The landscape is absolutely different from the days before. El Charabon combines open prairies with a large Eucalyptus forest. After the morning ride at the estancia, we will have a goodbye lunch and then be driven to Montevideo airport for our return flight. END.

Custom Itinerary (available to private groups)

This handsome period house has been totally refurbished to represent the most elegant colonial era in the country. The delicious meals are based on traditional Uruguayan cuisine. We then ride around the parklands of the estancia to become familiar with the horses and the local tack. Later, you can acquaint yourself with the country's tannat wines. Overnight at the tourist estancia, which has swimming pool, sauna and a jacuzzi available for your personal use.

Day 2
Next morning we ride out across the nearby fields, through eucalyptus forests and on to the typical grasslands of central Uruguay. We come back to the estancia for lunch. Siesta. During the late afternoon we ride again in the surrounding area. You can immerse yourself in the history and spirit of the early settlers of this country while walking around the grounds and buildings of this magnificent estancia. Overnight in the estancia.

Day 3
Following breakfast we drive Northeast through Treinta-y-tres province and into Rocha, considered by Uruguayans to be the most beautiful part of their country with its pristine beaches, emerald waters and network of lagoons. As we arrive at San Miguel Fortress hotel built from the same stone as the nearby Portuguese era fortress you can admire the views out across the Merin Lagoon, one of the largest on the continent. We have now arrived near the Brazilian border town of Chuy.
Once inside the imposing walls of the hotel you can enjoy the comfortable rooms and the delicious food, a far cry from the austere life in the fortress itself in times gone by. After lunch we ride around the rolling hills of San Miguel National Park, with the local ranger as our guide, along the way enjoying a wonderful panoramic view of the whole border area from the top of the boulder covered Picudo hill. The view across the flat lowlands and the Merin lagoon shows a different landscape from the riding of the previous days. This area is home to a wide variety of birds and many different native trees and bushes. You also have the chance to see the Cimarron cattle that were introduced from Spain in the 17th century.

You stay the night at the hotel where you can enjoy the gardens and visit the pulperia, the traditional tavern and a meeting point for gauchos.

Day 4
In the morning we ride over to visit the impressively restored granite fortress built in 1734 by the Spaniards to control the Brazilian frontier, then rebuilt by the Portuguese after its destruction in 1737. Onwards we ride along local roads to our lunch picnic under shady trees at an estancia along our route. After siesta we continue riding to the coast and once on the beach we ride across the pure white sands to arrive 22km further South at La Coronilla village to stay at a comfortable beach-side hotel.

Day 5
Today we ride South along beaches through coastal hills, over sand dunes, through pine forests and into the Santa Teresa forest. The center-piece of the park is the grand Santa Teresa fortress started in 1762 by the Portuguese to defend their frontier, then completed by the Spaniards who took it by assault just a year later. This was just the start of successive conquests of the frontier area and it was not until 1825 that emerging Uruguay ultimately captured and held the fort. The fort is surrounded by 3000 hectares of exotic forest.

After a picnic close to the fortress or near the beach depending upon the weather, we ride out of the park to meet our transfer bus taking us inland to Estancia El Sauce, where we arrive in time for afternoon tea.

Day 6
The estancia that we stay at is partly cattle production with horses and partly intensive agricultural rice production. Our main interest is naturally to ride out on the fast and willing criollo horses that are regularly used by the gauchos to work the cattle. Expect some flat out gallops across the open grasslands that surround the cozy main buildings. We also visit the rice operation. Our hosts ensure that we are well looked after and join us for dinner around the large dining table. The days riding will be adjusted according to the wishes of the group as to pace and length.

Day 7
Very early the next morning we drive for about an hour to meet our previous horses and gauchos. The mornings ride takes us through large groves of butia palms, native to this area of wetlands that is full of birds and exotic plants. We reach the black lagoon around lunch, which is an asado, or barbeque. You get to try try the butia liquor derived from the same palms mentioned earlier. The lagoons warm waters are suitable for a midday swim. In the afternoon we ride into the nearby hills, visiting a wild fig grove hundreds of years old, then climb up through native forest to the peak. A short walk to the rocks on top provide you with a panoramic view of Rocha province with its beaches, palm groves, hills and lakes set in emerald green countryside. We continue riding for another 12km to meet the horse transporter collecting the horses to take them to tomorrows starting point. We return with our group bus to the rustic Don Bosco Salesian mission where we stay the night. The mission has excellent views across the black lagoon.

Day 8
We drive early in the morning for an hour to where the horses are waiting for us at the access route to Cabo Polonia. We mount up and ride along into a fairly big dune area and on along the beach to Cape Polonio, a small bohemian fishing village that only allows access by horse or four wheel drive vehicle so as to conserve the dunes. On the beach rocks off the light house there is a colony of sea lions. Very occasionally, and if your luck is good it is also possible to spot migrating whales or dolphins feeding in the bay. After lunch we ride out of the Cabo Polonia area on the back of a large 4WD truck, meet our bus and drive to Estancia El Charabon. This way we can again meet a new set of rested and willing horses to ride for a couple of hours over rolling hills and through groves of eucalyptus trees before dinner in the luxury estancia.

Day 9
We ride during the morning on Estancia El Charabon, visiting different paddocks and moving cattle. Our willing well trained horses are a pleasure to ride. Lunch at the estancia. You will then be driven on to Montevideo or to the airport in time for your outward flight. END.

Summary

Price guide per person for 4-10 riders

Quality horses
Fast riding pace
Accommodation

Dramatic scenery
Good weather
Cultural interest